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| Three hundred of Mexico’s 1,000 orchid varieties are a major part of the Vallarta Botanical Garden in the mountains near Puerto Vallarta. Image by Tom Adkinson |
PUERTO VALLARTA, Mexico – Fiery sunsets, tangy margaritas, and lazy walks on the beachfront Malecon are among Puerto Vallarta’s big attractions, but so are colorful orchids, flitting hummingbirds, and refreshing dips in a jungle river.
The sunsets, margaritas, and walks along the Malecon are downtown diversions, while the orchids, hummingbirds, and river swims are just 45 minutes away and 1,300 feet up a coastal mountain south of the city at the Jardin Botánico Vallarta (Vallarta Botanical Garden).
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| A hiker turns on a switchback along the Jaguar Trail, deemed the most strenuous route in the garden’s trail system. Image by Tom Adkinson |
The non-profit Vallarta Botanical Gardens opened in 2005 and for two decades has been evolving as a place to showcase native plants, conserve the biodiversity of western Mexico, contribute to botanical research, and to show locals and visitors that Puerto Vallarta transcends margaritas on the beach.
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| A succulent hairdo adds a stylistic touch to a ceramic pot at the Vallarta Botanical Garden. Image by Tom Adkinson |
The garden is a 64-acre enclave with multiple assets. Among them are a building dedicated to many species of rhododendrons and a conservatory showcasing orchids that would be the envy of any florist. The garden’s staff says it has 300 of Mexico’s 1,000 orchid varieties.
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| A garden visitor takes a break beside the Horcones River where the strenuous Jaguar Trail and the gentler Rio Trail intersect. Image by Tom Adkinson |
In a setting this verdant and diverse, it is not surprising that birding is one of the garden’s popular activities. It even offers an “early bird” opening time on Thursdays for dedicated birders.
More than 200 bird species have been documented in the garden, both resident tropical birds and migratory visitors. Hummingbirds are especially numerous from May through November. One species North American visitors are unlikely to see on their home turf is the cinnamon hummingbird, notable for its brilliant brownish gold colors. It lives predominantly along Mexico’s Pacific coast south to Costa Rica.
In addition to hummingbirds, butterflies are abundant because of the large number of blossoms that need their pollination services. A sign along one of the garden’s trails pictures almost 50 butterfly species common in the area, creating an interesting game of “Name That Butterfly” when you see several skittering through the air around you.
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| A Hacienda de Oro baker pulls a pizza from the restaurant’s open-air brick oven. Image by Tom Adkinson |
The garden has an extensive trail system, with routes ranging from easy to reasonably strenuous. The Jaguar Trail, for instance, starts at a mid-level elevation, requires multiple switchbacks to climb a ridge, and features more switchbacks to descend through a valley to reach the Horcones River. The payoff for hiking the Jaguar Trail is wading – or swimming – in the river’s cool water.
Climbing from river level back to the garden’s central area is a surprisingly short and easy walk that leads to a Cactus House. Another trail winds through a vanilla tree plantation and features a swinging bridge over the river.
A contemplative portion of the garden contains a chapel, Our Lady of the Garden, and the International Peace Garden. The peace garden features plants from the Mediterranean region and the Holy Land growing side by side with Mexican wildflowers to create “a landscape that celebrates coexistence, respect and diversity.” It is one of 23 peace gardens worldwide.
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| Artwork, even on staircases, decorates spaces throughout the Vallarta Botanical Garden. Image by Tom Adkinson |
Hacienda de Oro, an open-air two-level restaurant at the center of the garden, provides a culinary treat to add to your nature exploration. Its menu features several traditional Mexican dishes, and one of its surprises is a range of pizzas and baked burritos that emerge from a circular brick oven.
“Our botanical garden isn’t a place you can see with just one visit,” said Tatiana Sanchez, owner of Mexico Real Tours, explaining that the garden often delivers more than most of her clients expect.
Trip-planning resources: VBgardens.org, Tours by Tatiana, and VisitPuertoVallart.com
(Travel writer Tom Adkinson’s book, 100 Things To Do in Nashville Before You Die, is available at Amazon.com.
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