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In Pictures: Going to Spanish extremes in Extremadura’s Cáceres
By Tom Adkinson
November 10, 2023
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CÁCERES, Spain – You easily can go to chronological extremes in the ancient city of Cáceres in Spain’s Extremadura region (west of Madrid and up against Portugal). Start in the current moment by fueling your body with fresh croissants from one of the city’s many bakeries, and then explore the UNESCO World Heritage site rated the third best-preserved old quarter in Europe. The Romans had a bustling community on this Iberian hilltop by 25 B.C., and a succession of Visigoths, Arabs, Moors and Christians traded control over the centuries, creating a beautiful architectural mish-mash. Fans of HBO’s “Game of Thrones” will recognize part of the medieval wall surrounding the old city – it became the King’s Landing on TV. The heritage area (where the newest structure was built in 1755) holds many surprises. In addition to churches and museums, there are top-rated restaurants discretely hidden away and two locations where cloistered nuns sell cookies through special revolving windows without ever seeing their customers. All of this is just a few minutes’ walk from a bustling, modern city with shaded promenades, coffee shops, a major university and other amenities. Bring your walking shoes.
Relaxing in Plaza Mayor
The relaxing atmosphere of Plaza Mayor de Cáceres, located just outside the city’s medieval wall, belies its storied past. In the days of knights and lords, it was the site of jousts. Later, bullfights drew cheering crowds. Today, shops, casual restaurants and occasional festivals are the attractions. Image by Tom Adkinson
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Peering into the past
A model of the walled portion of Cáceres helps visitors appreciate the scale and crazy-quilt layout of streets and alleyways of the ancient city, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. UNESCO called it the third best-preserved old quarter in Europe. Image by Tom Adkinson
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Admiring the Tower of Sande
Colorful Virginia creeper vines decorate the Gothic-style Tower of Sande, built in the 14th century. Inside the tower is the Restaurante Torre de Sande, which is a sister establishment to the city’s most famous restaurant, Atrio. Atrio has three Michelin stars. Image by Tom Adkinson; Torre de Sande
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Walking along the Paseo de Canovas
The Paseo de Canovas stretches for several blocks through a modern portion of downtown Cáceres. Shops, restaurants and other businesses line the streets on either side of the promenade. Image by Tom Adkinson
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Showing off pastries
Bakeries, cafes and coffee shops are constant enticements as you stroll through both the ancient and modern portions of Cáceres. This tray of goodies is at the Granier pananderia near the NH Hotel Palacio de Oquendo, lodging built into a converted 16th century palace. Image by Tom Adkinson
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Reliving TV memories
The preserved medieval buildings of Cáceres are popular with TV and movie producers, some of whom concluded that the Arco de la Estrella (Star Arch) would be perfect as the King’s Landing in “Game of Thrones.”
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Waiting for cookies to appear
This customer has spoken his order to an unseen nun at the Convent of St. Paul and placed his money is a revolving window. Soon – and not by magic – the window will spin around to him with a box of two dozen freshly baked cookies. Image by Tom Adkinson
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Trip-planning resources: TurismoExtremadura.com and Spain.info
(Travel writer Tom Adkinson’s book, 100 Things To Do in Nashville Before You Die, is available on Amazon.com.)
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